You can’t make these things happen. You can go to a zoo, but that’s a rather
forced meeting wouldn’t you say? Who
says the giraffe wants to be anywhere near you?
He has no choice. The fox however
chose my yard, and I was there when he did.
It’s all chance. But when it
happens it’s meaningful, at least to me.
You can improve your odds of encountering wild animals by going
into a wilderness. I was just
there. I’d like to share an account of
that experience with you. Think of me as
your roving reporter, and this an edition of animal stories.
Going north from Dryden Ontario, on Highway 105 to Red Lake
(where the road more or less ends), the roadside is bordered by lakes and
wetlands, trees and rocks. Aside from
the pavement and power lines few signs of human intrusion are seen for 130
miles. Four American guys traveling that
road, in one of those big plush four passenger pickup trucks, were bemoaning
the lack of moose sightings. We were slowly scaling then descending gently
rolling rock hills. At the bottom of the
dips there was invariably water.
“Every time we pass one of those bays I expect to see a
moose. I always look, but I never see
one,” the driver said.
“I know what you’re saying.
I do the same thing,” said the guy in the passenger seat.
We didn’t listen to the radio driving up. It was like we were slowly decompressing. The truck had a Wi-Fi hotspot, but soon we’d
be completely cut off from all outside signals; phone, internet, radio,
TV. I was looking forward to it. My smart phone would be reduced to simply a
camera and a flashlight.
Not a town, not a person, very little traffic greeted us
along the way. It was quiet in the
truck. Then, just south of Ear Falls,
one of the men in the back uttered a single word.
“Moose.”
The driver immediately slowed and we all looked toward the
water. Standing along the road, not
twenty feet away, was a bull moose. Big
rack of antlers, long skinny legs, dripping wet and nearly black. At first I thought he was a statue, and then
his head moved. He held his head high
and his big eyes looked at the truck. We
glided past him. He never took a step,
and then we were gone.
Funny how a few moments can make such an impression, the
image burned into your brain such that you will never forget.
Our destination was Job Lake, one of the many lakes leased
to outfitters in Northern Canada which are reachable only by float planes. It’s a 30 minute flight from Red Lake. When the plane lands on the lake, taxis to
the dock, your gear is unloaded, and the plane takes off again-you and seven
friends are the only people on the lake for the next seven days. 4 boats, 8 guys, a rustic cabin, and 8,800
acres of clean fresh water lake.
We go there to fish, but long ago we found out it’s not just
the fishing that brings us back. It’s
the quiet, the beauty, the seclusion, and the wildlife.
Up from our dock is a rustic cabin with a deck, porch,
kitchen, half bath, and a big room with a dining table and 8 bunks. We always go the week before Labor Day. The weather is usually good and the bugs absent, so we spend a lot of time on the
deck. When we do we have visitors.
The boldest are the Whiskey Jacks. Also called Canadian Jays or Gray Jays or Camp
Robbers, these birds will land right beside you and stare you down. Nate was having a sandwich on the deck at
lunch and thought a Whiskey Jack was going to go for a chunk of it while it was
in hand. They’re brassy, those Whiskey
Jacks, and hungry. Some took to feeding
them, leaving bits of leftover pancakes, biscuits, what have you on the deck
ledge until an unfortunate incident made us question the wisdom of our human
intervention. But no sad tales
today. Here’s a healthy and happy Whiskey
Jack.
A few boats saw otters.
They keep their distance as well, their heads often appearing as bits of
wood bobbing in the water until they suddenly disappear, only to pop up again
further away. I once saw an otter
running the bank of a lake in the boundary waters. They’re bigger than you think, sleek and
shiny.
Bald Eagles are quite a show on Job Lake. Perched in the trees that ring the shore, the
eagles are always on the watch at day’s end when we clean fish. Our daily trip across the lake, to make sure bears
are not attracted to the fish guts, lends itself to this close up view. The other birds, mostly gulls and vultures, scatter when this guy is hungry. Among birds he’s king of the lake.
When you do get a northern pike on the line it’s a rush. Northern, who grow bigger than walleye, fight
harder. Serious northern fishermen use
high test line and steel leaders with big spoons and other artificial lures. Steel
leaders, tied on the very end of the line before the lure are used to keep the
fish from cutting the line with its teeth when they hit. Stronger line is
employed to keep the fish on when hooked.
Northern are the giants of the lake.
My friend Nathan caught a thirty seven incher (37”), the biggest northern
of the week. Not an easy task to land a
northern that big on a walleye set up, but Nate’s a good fisherman.
We follow those rules closely, and kept few if any fish over 18 ½ inches. We want Northern Ontario’s fishery to be as healthy as possible. In fact, on days we ate fish we found that four fish per boat was too many. That would give us 16 walleye, 32 filets, which was more than we could eat. So we cut back to three per boat. Plenty for us. No need to be greedy.
Truth is, we caught lots more fish than our limit. It’s the catching not the eating, the experience
not the trophy. Like the moment I had
with the red fox when I came home, it’s the encounter with those beautiful wild
fish that makes the trip. One more fish
story and I’ll let you go.
I was fishing with Gary that morning and it was a little
slow. A cloudy day with a little chop,
waves on the lake, chilly, spitting rain once in a while. That’s usually perfect for walleye. But our spots weren’t panning out.
“You want to go to the wall?” Gary said.
“Yeah, I love the wall.
Let’s head there.”
We brought our lines in and set off for a trip across the
lake. The wall is sort of the entrance
to the southern part of Job Lake. It’s a
tall rock island. On one side is a sheer
wall of stacked red and gray granite, some green with lichens. You can see where over time rock has sheared
off and fallen in the lake. Blocks of
granite are strewn by the shore and underwater. Pine
trees cling to cracks in the rocks.
The water is deep right up to those rocks. To be that close to land yet in such deep
water is unusual. The catching is not
always good, but it’s so beautiful I love to fish there anyway. I scan the intricate rock wall and imagine
the millions of years it took to form. I
imagine fish among the boulders way below me.
I space out and get lost in thought.
Sometimes that’s a great place to be.
Gary judged the wind and set us up on a drift that he hoped would
sweep us relatively near the shore across the wall. He knew from the depth finder we were in deep
water, sometimes thirty feet. The drift
took us in a little, maybe too close. We
would have to go out and reset the drift.
I put my pole down to get something out of my tackle box. The tip of my rod leaned outside the boat.
“I think you’re getting a bite,” Gary said.
I looked up. Sure
enough, the end of my rod was bending then letting up. I picked up my pole and felt the line
twitch. I let it go for a few seconds
more, felt another twitch and pulled up quickly, setting the hook. It felt solid. My drag began to whine. After a time I began to reel it up.
“I may need the net,” I told Gary.
Usually we just bring the walleye up to the side of the
boat, grab the jig in their mouth, and lift them into the boat. You can do that with an average fish. This felt bigger.
It didn’t fight a lot.
I continued to reel it in and then we saw him near the surface. When the fish saw the boat it headed back
down where it came from.
“Whoa,” Gary said.
I didn’t want to horse the fish into the boat. My line was six pound test. The fish would tire out, Gary would net it,
and then we could see what we had. I worried
my line could snag on the rocks. I kept
my rod tip up and continued to work the fish slowly. Finally we saw it again. The fish broke the surface and rolled on its
side.
Gary got the net under that big fish and scooped it into the
boat like he was shoveling snow. He put
it at my feet. It thumped the bottom of
the boat hard as it flopped.
“Jesus, what is it?”
“It’s a walleye.”
“I thought it was a catfish.
Look at its head.”
I opened her mouth.
Rather than being hooked through the lip the barb of the jig hook was
buried in the top of her upper mouth. No
blood, it’s all bone and gristle there, so I dug in my tackle box and got out the needle nose pliers. It wasn’t stuck as
bad as I thought. I grabbed the shaft of
the hook, gave it a turn and a pull, and she was free.
“Wow Gary. Let’s get
a picture. I want to get her back in the
water.”
“Well you have to measure it.”
She was hard to hold.
I got a good grip on her tail, the other hand under her head, and put
her against the side of the boat where the inches were laid out. Twenty seven inches (27”). Biggest
walleye I’d ever caught.
“Hold her up Dave. Let’s
get this done.”
And there you go. Of
all the moments I’ve had with wild animals that was one of the best. She was a
beautiful fish.
On the drive home we rounded a curve and a small black bear
was in our lane, taking its time crossing the road. Rick slowed, honked his horn, and the bear looked over
its shoulder at us as if annoyed. Finally
it turned and disappeared into the woods.
An hour later, in broad daylight, another shape crossed the
road in front of us.
“Is that a coyote?” I said.
“That’s a cat. And not
a bobcat either. Look at that tail.” Bob said.
It was a cougar, also called a mountain lion. Bob cats and lynx have short tails. This tail was long and fluffy. It was a first for all of us, seeing that big
cat.
Here’s the refreshing thing about our trip. The only politics we encountered in the
wilderness were the ideas, the frustrations, and the observations we brought with
us. They faded. Soon we were asking what day it was, what was
next for dinner, what we thought the weather might be, and where best to fish
next. We lived in the moment for the
most part, and anticipated the next, as those animals we encountered did. Fish swim and eat for the most part. Animals simply live their lives. Life is simple. And it can be for us if we let it.
Don’t get me wrong, you need to vote in November. But you also need to escape the craziness of
modern life when you can. It will you do
you good I guarantee.