I was in Guatemala on the top deck of a boat traveling
across Lake Atitlan from San Antonio Polapo to San Lucas Toliman after the
first day of I Care International’s free eye clinic when my friend Tim asked me
this question;
“So what would it take for you to pack it all in and move to
a warmer place?”
I was in a tee shirt and shorts. The sun was starting to set and it was a
little chilly, but I was drinking in the good weather and the beauty of the lake.
photo by Lynn Zwica
I had been complaining to Tim about our
winter in Illinois. We had a mild
December and then were slammed, one
snowstorm and frigid spell after another.
Tim lives in San Luis Obispo, California and finds it hard to
relate. It’s one of the more beautiful
and temperate parts of our Pacific coast.
SLO has managed to avoid the wildfires and mudslides that recently have
plagued that state. I’ve visited
there. It’s lovely. Here was my answer;
“Oh, I’m not going anywhere.
Illinois is home. The winters are
tough to take but I’m not looking to leave.”
I surprised myself in a way but I know well the place from
where that quick answer comes. My kids
are here, working and succeeding in Chicago less than a hundred miles
away. I have two brothers and a sister
living in Illinois, one who moved back from California to be near us among
other things.
I have lived in my small community of Ottawa, off and on,
mostly on, since 1973. I attend a church
here that is important to me. I have
familiarity with the area, to say nothing of my house which has been my home
since 1987 and is now paid off. I have
my garden, my neighbors, and most importantly good friends.
While I designed the shack to be technically portable, able
to be picked up, transported by semi with a low boy trailer, down the
interstate without even a WIDE LOAD sign, and placed in another beautiful spot anywhere
simply by pouring four level concrete posts and dropping it on them, I have a
feeling the shack it not going anywhere either. And I’m certainly not going anywhere without
it.
Illinois’ winters are not my favorite, especially as I age,
but I get a little giddy with the beauty of spring, summer, and fall in the
Illinois Valley. For me it’s a no
brainer. I was born a hundred miles downstate,
grew up on a farm, as did my parents and their parents as well. I hope to always take trips but I am fairly
certain I will always come home to Illinois.
As the Guatemala trip progressed I quietly inventoried what
keeps me in Illinois, pondering the reverse of that question too. What would compel to leave my home? Certainly not the weather, but what? Vacations are a good time for long
thinks. I gave that question a lot of
thought.
Twice a day for four days we chugged across Lake Atitlan to
our eye clinic in San Antonio Polapo. There is no road that circles
the lake. Roads that do exist are in
very poor condition. Our clinic was staged in an
evangelical church halfway up the steeply sloped hillside village. Our patients were mostly local but some
traveled from nearby villages by bus, boat, or on foot. They were primarily Mayan Indians. About a third of those seeking eye care spoke
no Spanish, but rather Pre-Columbian languages, Tz’utujil and Kaqchickel, two of the reported 21 Mayan languages spoken in
Guatemala by its Indian population.
Many of the American volunteers know enough Spanish to get
by, but none of us know those ancient languages. It slowed us down a bit, but brought us
closer to local volunteers, speakers of both Spanish and the Mayan languages
and sometimes English as well. They were
primarily young people able to spend days with us in the clinic. We became close with them over the four
days. It’s one of the benefits of
volunteering that surpasses the experience of most tourists.
The lake we traveled across is the deepest in Central
America, over 1100 feet at its greatest depth.
It covers an area of about 50 square miles and is ringed by villages
named after Christian biblical figures, the apostles, John the Baptist, etc.. However most are tagged with a Kaqchikel or Tz’utujil modifier. I asked locals on the boat dock what the word
Palopo meant, which followed Saint Anthony (San Antonio) as the name of their
town. They looked at each other,
discussed it in depth in their native language, looked quizzically at each
other, and then replied in Spanish that it didn’t translate. They shrugged, looked a little sheepish, but
left it at that.
The fact that the Mayans have preserved 21 separate
languages, maintained their traditional dress, incorporated their ancient
religion into Christianity, and kept community intact in small villages where
life is hard is testament to the strength of their Mayan culture, which began
in 2000 B.C, collapsed as a civilization in 900 A.D., but lives on today in the
everyday lives of the rural indigenous people of Guatemala and elsewhere in
Central America.
The separateness of Guatemala’s Indian peoples has been
aided, unfortunately, by a Guatemalan national government which has always
excluded them. The government is
dominated by Mestizos, those of mixed European and Indian ancestry, who are the
oligarchs of Guatemala, the rich ruling class which controls both elected
officials and the military. 55% of
Guatemala’s nearly 17 million citizens are indigenous, the vast majority of those
Mayan Indian, yet the indigenous have never been in control.History plays a part in the now of every country. On the surface Guatemala is filled with bright colors, friendly people, and wonderful weather. But Guatemala’s history has a dark side.
During the Guatemalan Civil War (1960-1996), Lake Atitlan was the scene of terrible human rights abuses, as the government pursued a scorched earth policy. Indigenous people were assumed to be universally supportive of the guerillas fighting against the government, and were targeted for brutal reprisals. At least 300 Maya from Santiago Atitlán, a large town on the lake near our clinic, are believed to have disappeared during the conflict.
That conflict was fueled in the early 1980’s by the rise of Daniel Ortega’s leftist Sandinista government in Nicaragua, and the U.S. government’s support and funding of the “Contras” a reactionary force organized to quash the guerilla movement. In Guatemala that resistance took the form of death squads, vigilante groups aiding the army which acted with impunity against native villagers.
Two events of this era made international news. One was the assassination of Stanley Rother, a missionary from Oklahoma, in the church at Santiago Atitlán in 1981. In 1990, a spontaneous protest march to the army base on the edge of town was met by gunfire, resulting in the death of 11 unarmed civilians.
But the bulk of the resistance, and subsequent
killings by the death squads, was away from the lake, in a mountainous triangle
defined by the towns of Quetzaltenango, Huehuetenango, and Santa Cruz del
Quiche. No one knows how many people throughout
Guatemala died in that conflict, but all agree the overwhelming majority were
indigenous people. Estimates put the
number at 200,000 souls. Mass graves
were discovered, but many of that number simply disappeared, never to be heard
from or seen again.
That is the quiet backdrop against which life in the
rural highlands of Guatemala plays out.
Families and communities recovering, with individual traumas still being
overcome. Older people remembering the
reality, young people hearing their stories.
And so we brought the rural people of Guatemala
glasses. Because of the difficulty of local
travel, the time and expense required of patients to travel to the clinic, we
served but 950 people in four days. That
is below our capacity. But those that
made it to us needed help substantially.
They were infinitely patient. We Americans are always impressed at how kind
the individuals in the clinic are to each other, and to us, during the long
wait. Family members accompany the
elderly. Mothers bring their babies and
toddlers. Amazingly few of those children cry
or act out.
Our intake form, a vital piece of paper that gives
us a snapshot of each patient’s life and vision problems, asks if the patient can
read. A fair number, mostly older, said
no. Most never had an eye exam or had
worn glasses, even those with the most extensive visual problems.
We brought about 6,000 pairs of glasses given to us
by the Lion’s Club, which were cleaned, evaluated, and sorted into boxes back home.
They formed a catalog of prescriptions we matched as closely as possible
to the one suggested by one of our eight eye doctors. It works amazingly well. We provide substantial help, if not a near
perfect script, for what their eyes require.
Let me tell you about just three patients I served, all in one morning.
I called the name of a woman, Maria, without looking
at her age. A quiet 7-year-old girl rose up from those waiting on
folding chairs in response, her head bobbing barely above those still
sitting. She was dressed in the colorful
and intricate embroidered woven cloth that is used to make traditional skirts
and blouses worn by the indigenous in Guatemala. We served a lot of children in this clinic,
but few that were alone. I bid her good
morning, asked how she was doing, and shook her hand. She smiled and spoke Spanish in return. I looked at her intake sheet.
Maria had fairly bad eyes for someone so young. She was myopic, without astigmatism, but a
fairly strong prescription, -3.50 sphere, was needed. A lot of correction for a 7-year-old.
We had what she needed. I
adjusted the glasses to her small face, and she was quickly done.
A little later I was sitting across from a tiny elderly
woman accompanied by her daughter. She
was an Indian woman with a scarf covering her head and part of her face. I had her intake sheet and glasses selected
by our volunteer pickers. She did not
read or speak Spanish. They had selected
a fairly standard bifocal prescription
for her. She seemed shy.
I unfolded the glasses, and reached to place them on
her face. When she pulled back her scarf
she revealed a large port-wine birthmark
nearly covering the right half her face.
The eye on that side appeared
lifeless and blank. I checked the intake
form. There was no prescription for the
right eye. I looked at her daughter, and
asked, just to make sure.
“No Sirve? El
Ojo derecho?” (Not working, the right eye?)
“No.”I placed the glasses on her face and they were much too big. Old style goggles from the 70’s that rode way down on her cheeks. Hopeless.
Then I thought of my friend’s glasses. He had given them to me late, and we were not able to include them in the boxes. I was carrying them in my backpack. They were small and light. When we arrived I asked a one of the eye doctors to determine their prescription on the portable lensometer. If I was right, that script was close to the one contained in the heavy pair of glasses currently sliding down that poor woman’s nose.
I retrieved my friend’s donated glasses and it was
the same prescription. I put them on her
face and they fit perfectly. Small and
sturdy, they had belonged to my friend’s mother, recently passed away. He asked me to give them to someone who
needed them. I promised to both complete
that task and take a picture.
But I couldn’t.
When I looked at her tiny face with the birthmark I just couldn’t
request a photo. She was too self-conscious.
I don’t take as many pictures of people as I used to for that reason.The little woman smiled, looked across the room, through her first pair of glasses ever, and began to speak rapidly in Kaqchickel, pointing to the sky, then pointing to me. I looked again to her daughter.
“Que Pasa?” (What’s happening?)
“Un Bendiga. (A blessing.)
“Catolica?” (Catholic?)“No. Un Bendiga del Maya. Mucho mas Viejo.” (A Mayan blessing. Much older.)
We get a lot of bendigas or blessings in fitting. It’s where the process ends, where glasses are finally received, and improved vision is realized. It’s not fair really. All of the I Care volunteers work together to improve our patients’ vision. So do the people who give us glasses. I want to share that Mayan blessing with all of them, including my friend who gave I Care the gift of his mother’s glasses. It was my pleasure to put them to continued use, and put them on that poor woman’s face, on everyone’s behalf.
The last patient showed up with Maria, my previous seven-year-old patient with the serious
myopia. It was her father, who had been
delayed in clinic due to having his eyes dilated. I was surprised to see her, but glad to see
she was wearing her glasses. She smiled.
Maria’s father, not unexpectedly, was also myopic. But his myopia was more advanced. His prescription was -6.00 sphere. The pickers had wrapped two strong pairs of
glasses in his intake sheet. I read
it. Day laborer. Lived in a nearby village. 32 years of age.
He was wearing the kind of bedraggled glasses we often see in
these clinics. Broken, scratched, held
together with wire. This pair had a
string in the back, tied to the temples, to hold them on his head. I asked if I could see them and he handed
them to me. They were a wreck. Holding them up to the light and looking
through them, I could tell they were not nearly as strong as the ones we had
picked for him. I set them aside on a
table, unfolded one of the new pair, and put them on him, hooking them over his
ears. They fit him well.
Without waiting to be asked he immediately exclaimed“Oh, mucho mas claro.” (Much clearer.)
He looked around the room. He looked at Maria and they smiled at each other.
“Quantos anos tienes
estos?” I asked, pointing to the old
glasses he had worn in. (How many years
have you had these?)
“Ocho. Yo pago much in Antigua. Creo que
me robaron. “ (Eight years.
I paid too much in Antigua. Maybe
I was robbed.)
“Quanto costaron?” (What
was the cost?)
“$600 dollars US. Mi padre me ayudó a pagar. Pero se ha ido ahora.” ($600 U.S. dollars. My father helped me pay. But he is gone now.)
I whistled and shook my head.
That’s a hell of a lot of money for a day laborer in Guatemala. It’s a lot of money for anyone. Maybe he was robbed.
“Como esta tu familia
por dinero?” (How is your family for money?)
I hoped that wasn’t rude, but I wanted to know. He seemed eager to answer.
“Malo. No tenemos
dinero para meter a María en la escuela. Los libros,
los uniformes.
(Bad. We don’t have money to put Maria
in school. The books, the uniforms.)
Unlike most of the Guatemalans in
the clinic he seemed angry and anxious.
I adjusted the new glasses which he
would wear out of the clinic. Then I carefully
cleaned and folded up his old glasses and returned them to him. After that I gave him the second pair of
glasses we had picked for him also. We
usually only dispense one pair to a patient.
I decided on the spot he needed a backup
pair.
“Por usted, dos.” (For you, two.)
I also gave Maria a Pez dispenser,
and pressed three packs of extra candies into her father’s hand. It was one of the princess Pez figures. Maria lit up like a candle. The father didn’t
give me a blessing, instead we exchanged that cool handshake, the regular grip, the
one where you hook thumbs, then back to the regular. You know it.
The old hippie handshake. I
wished him luck.
“Buena suerta por usted y tu
familia.” (Good luck for you and your
family.)
Allow me to go back to the beginning. What would compel me to leave my home? I decided it would be one or a combination of
these three things.
o
The inability to feed or otherwise support my family.
o
Living in fearing for my own safety
or that of my family.
o
Genuinely believing the future held no hope.
If I was Maria’s Dad I would leave Guatemala. Some McClure at some point left Scotland (we
think), and sometime later my great grandfather left Northern Ireland to come
to America. It’s very likely those same
criteria played into their decisions.
People are compelled seek opportunity and a better life. Should we blame them?
The majority of legal asylum seekers that approach our country’s
southern border are from Guatemala, Honduras, and El Salvador. The U.S. long ago stopped helping in their
economic development in any material way, opting instead to invest in wars in
the Middle East. Maria’s Dad, and
possibly Maria herself, might well make that long journey out of
desperation. I don’t think the man I gave two pairs of glasses will any day soon
afford an airplane ticket and manage to obtain a visa.
If you were convinced you
must leave your home and your way of life where would you go? You would go where there is opportunity and
hope. No country symbolizes those
qualities more than ours.
It’s one thing to think of immigration and the problems it
presents as a matter of law and policy, but it is quite another to look poverty and despair in the face, while
dispensing glasses, and judge those who seek a better life. Immigration, particularly in regard to our
southern border and our Central American neighbors, will continue to be on the
front burner of American politics.
I ask you consider Maria and her Dad when you are confronted
with talking points from both sides of our immigration debate. There’s a reality there that we cannot
dodge. Our country has in the past, and
continues now even if by default, to play a major role in the lives of our
neighbors in this hemisphere. We have an
obligation to think more deeply about what we are doing, and how it affects the
lives of real people. I’ve seen them,
talked to them, and shaken their hands.
They are like you and I. Please
remember that.